Your Haute Hairess here, with another chic interview — all about the spring/summer 2013 runway inspired beauty! Today’s beauty guru — is Anna Kim, beauty editor of Stylesight
What beauty looks stood out on runways during the S/S 2013 fashion weeks? Can you please comment on the overall trends — in hair and makeup!
Anna Kim: Overall, the season felt tougher and stronger. More grown up, but not dated. If F/W 12 was about goth glamour, this season kept it real. It wasn’t about recreating a “look”, but taking ideas and emotions and remixing them for today.
• New Grunge (for hair + makeup)
◦ 90s Grunge – Courtney Love, Emma Balfour, Kate Moss were oft-mentioned inspirations backstage. But it wasn’t the greasy, gritty, dirty grunge of the 90s. Makeup artist Francelle Daly said it best at Phillip LIm, “It’s modern grunge – without the grunge.” It was cleaned up, healthier, more natural. I think the beauty at Dries Van Noten captured it well. Minimalist face, beefed up brows, coffee/espresso/taupe tones. Skin was matte-fresh with subtle highlights for dimension. Hair was lived-in, and matte, maybe with some mineral or bleached highlights, and painted on roots.
◦ Designers who did it: Balmain, Philip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Elizabeth and James,House of Holland, Isabel Marant, Topshop Unique, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Prabal Gurung, and more
• Statement Red Lip
◦ The red lip is a staple of the runways, but this season makeup artists stepped it up with an even, stronger lip. Many required 4 to 5 steps – i.e. filling in lips with lip liner, layering with lipsticks, sprinkling power pigment on top – so there was this exciting play of texture and color. Because it was paired with luminous skin and a minimalist eye, it didn’t look overbearing, but modern.
◦ I think the recent rise of lipstick is an interesting phenomenon. Before a couple years ago, no one wore lipstick except your mom or your grandmother. It was all about lip gloss. But then the recession happened, more women returned to the workforce, and lipstick became this symbol of collective strength. Red lipstick is the quintessential symbol of womanity, confidence and sophistication. It’s more grown up. Pink and lip gloss has youthful associations. Now, you see teenagers and twenty year olds wearing red lipstick all the time. I also think, on some subconscious level, it has something to do with separating yourself from reality tv culture (the Kardashians, Real Housewives, etc). These reality show ladies tend to favor a smoky eye with a glossy lip. So the red lip has come to stand even more for ladylike and sophisticated.
◦ Designers who did it: Prada, Jason Wu, Rochas, Loewe
• Blue (makeup)
◦ Blues take prominence this season. In times of instability we tend to gravitate towards blue. It’s a color that gives us a moment to reflect and center our minds. Last season there were a lot of peacock blues, this season we’re seeing aquatic blues and darker navy blues. There seems to be an enchantment with oceanic worlds. Aquatic blues immediately take us seaside, to our favorite vacation spots, to the clearest waters. It’s an escape in and of itself. Darker navies have a weightiness that offer security and comfort.
◦ Designers who did it: Altuzarra, MOnique Lhuillier, Jeremy Scott, Mary Katrantzou, Dior, Rebecca Minkoff
• Yellow (makeup)
◦ Sheer, sunny yellow was an interesting color addition. It brightens the eye and catches the light in a lovely way. Super sheer application looks a bit like watercolor and can be used as new neutral. It goes well with wine-stained lips.
◦ Designers who did it: Peter Som, Badgley Mischka, Ports 1961
• Fluffy, matte textures (hair)
◦ Many hair stylists spoke to the idea of using hair as fabric. Matte, distressed textures, a halo of flyaways added an organic, modern-ness to hair looks.
◦ Designers who did it: Prada, Louise Gray, Giles, Donna Karan, Bottega Veneta
• Prada & Jason Wu – the ultimate red lip, so strong. The red lip as a symbol of confidence and sophistication
• Missoni – the fluoro-cantaloupe lip was a color we haven’t seen in the past few seasons. We’ve had electric fuchsia and orange hues before, but mixed together, it created this fresh color. Its matte quality and smudged on application created a felt-tip, blurred effect that made it more about a color effect than a done lip.
• Dries Van Noten – the whole look was street but elegant. I think it really captured the mood of the season. It also showed a wearable, grown up pink.
• Vivienne Westwood Red label – her beauty looks are always so bold, but this stood out for its artistry as makeup artists brought Warhol screen prints to life
• Rodarte – medieval purity
• Peter Som – magical use of color both in makeup and hair. Even though it was supposed to be tough and cool, there was an innocence to it
What do you think inspired these trends?
Anna Kim: Since the recession, there’s been an emphasis on conscious consumption, not conspicuous consumption. As such, women went back to quality necessities. Makeup and hair pulled back to the basics – natural, almost masculine looks as many women returned to the work force. That’s where we saw lipstick make a huge comeback. This Spring marked a return to color, fun and neons as people were more optimistic and wanted to experiment again. For Fall 12, colors evolved in a glamorous sophisticated way. Strong female movie characters in Girl With a Dragon Tattoo, Hunger Games and our culture’s continuing obsession with vampires influenced the goth glam looks. This Spring, the upcoming election, constant talk of political and economic instability has inspired us to seek some sort of normalcy. In a way, normal has become cool. It’s a backlash against fakeness. There’s a desire for authenticity with a preference for everyday things.
What are the 2013 color palettes, and how can they transition into makeup and hair?
Anna Kim: Earthy tones with cinnamon, gold, persimmon and port…with key colors: Blues – like sapphire, turquoise and algae to navy…also sheer yellow as a new neutral.
Nails are this season’s best accessory! What are some of the most innovative nail designs you’ve seen?
Anna Kim: Of course, nails are the best accessories. Nail art has evolved into nail jewelry in the form of jeweled accents. Rather than elaborate designs, this season was a bit more elegant and accessible to women of all ages. I thought Ruffian did that really well. The French nail is back but in colorful variations (i.e. Peter Som – mint base, tangerine tip).
Nude nails were the dominant trend. Even Topshop Unique did a neutral nail which is a big statement since they’ve done elaborate nail art in the past. There were lot of great designs like the “bloody” nail at Jason Wu, but I think the most innovative nails were those that offered a textural twist to the nude nail and made it interesting. Rodarte’s medieval bondage was really exciting to see. CND did a basket weave of wax paper painted with neutral colors.